Korea Has 31 UV Filters. The US Just Got Its 17th.
By Liz Song, K-beauty sourcing consultant. Founder of ALTAMEET, with experience across 200+ trade show interpreting sessions and Korean cosmetics manufacturer export sales.
On June 9, 2026, the FDA did something it had not done since 1999: it approved a new sunscreen ingredient. Bemotrizinol, also known as Tinosorb S, can now be used in US sunscreens at up to 6% concentration, effective August 9, 2026.
Korean formulators have been using bemotrizinol for years. At 10% concentration. Combined with other advanced filters that the FDA still has not touched.
So yes, the US sunscreen ingredient list grew from 16 to 17. Korea's list sits at 31. If you have ever wondered why Korean sunscreens feel like skincare while American sunscreens feel like sunscreen, the answer starts with those two numbers.
Why the Gap Exists
The US FDA classifies sunscreen as an over-the-counter drug. Every new UV filter must go through the same approval pathway as a pharmaceutical ingredient. That process took 24 years for bemotrizinol alone: the petition was filed in 2002, and approval came in 2026.
Korea, like the EU and most of the developed world, classifies sunscreen as a cosmetic. New UV filters go through a functional cosmetics notification process that moves in months, not decades. Korea has added three new filters since 2024 alone.
The practical result: Korean formulators have access to modern UV chemistry developed over the past 20 years. American formulators are mostly working with ingredients approved in the 1970s and 1980s. (For the full regulatory picture on importing Korean skincare, see our FDA import guide.)
The Filters That Matter Most
Three filters illustrate what the US market is still missing, even after the bemotrizinol approval:
Bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S), now US-approved: A broad-spectrum filter that absorbs both UVA and UVB without degrading in sunlight. This is the big one. Avobenzone, the dominant UVA filter in American sunscreens, photodegrades within minutes of UV exposure. Bemotrizinol does not. It also leaves no white cast. Korean sunscreens have been built on this filter for years, and now US brands can finally use it, though at a lower concentration (6% vs Korea's 10%) and with DSM-Firmenich holding 18-month marketing exclusivity.
Uvinul A Plus (diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate), still not US-approved: A photostable UVA-specific filter with excellent skin compatibility. Korean formulators pair this with bemotrizinol to build broad-spectrum systems that maintain protection all day. Low irritation potential makes it ideal for sensitive skin formulations. The FDA has not begun a review process for this ingredient.
Bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M), still not US-approved: An organic UV filter with both absorption and reflection properties. Works across UVA and UVB ranges. Widely used in Korean and European formulations as part of multi-filter systems. No FDA review in progress.
Why Korean Sunscreens Feel Different
The regulatory gap creates three practical advantages that consumers experience every time they apply a Korean sunscreen:
No white cast. When you have 31 filters available, you can build broad-spectrum protection by combining multiple filters at lower individual concentrations. Lower concentrations of mineral filters mean no chalky residue. Korean SPF formulas achieve SPF 50+ protection with combinations that look and feel invisible across all skin tones.
Better stability. Avobenzone, the most common UVA filter in US products, breaks down in sunlight within minutes unless stabilized. Bemotrizinol and Uvinul A Plus are inherently photostable. Korean formulations built on these filters maintain their protection throughout the day without the "reapply every 80 minutes" urgency that plagues American sunscreen marketing.
Skincare-level actives in the formula. Because Korean formulators are not burning their ingredient budget on trying to make limited UV filters work, they have room to incorporate hyaluronic acid (1 to 2%), niacinamide (3 to 5%), and botanical bases like birch sap at concentrations that deliver real skin benefits. The result is what the industry calls a "serum-sunscreen": a single daily step that protects and treats. (For more on trending K-beauty actives, see our 2026 ingredient trends guide.)
What Bemotrizinol's Approval Means for Founders
The FDA's approval of bemotrizinol changes the landscape for indie brand founders in three ways:
US-facing sunscreen products just got better. If you are formulating for the US market, you now have access to a photostable broad-spectrum filter that does not leave white cast. This was the single biggest ingredient gap between US and Korean sunscreens, and it is partially closing. Products with bemotrizinol can hit US shelves starting August 9, 2026.
Korean ODMs still have a formulation advantage. Bemotrizinol alone does not replicate what Korean sunscreens do. The Korean ODM ecosystem has years of experience formulating with bemotrizinol in combination with Uvinul A Plus, bisoctrizole, and other filters that remain unavailable in the US. Even for US-facing products limited to FDA-approved filters, Korean formulators bring expertise in hybrid filter systems, skincare integration, and cosmetic elegance that most US contract manufacturers do not match. (Understanding how MoCRA compliance works is essential for any Korea-manufactured sunscreen sold in the US.)
International markets remain wide open. If you manufacture in Korea and sell to the EU, UK, Canada, Australia, Japan, or Southeast Asia, you have access to the full 31-filter toolbox. Products formulated with Tinosorb S, Uvinul A Plus, and bisoctrizole are fully compliant in these markets. For brands building international distribution, Korean-sourced SPF is the strongest play available.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can US sunscreens now use Tinosorb S (bemotrizinol)?
Yes, as of August 9, 2026. The FDA approved bemotrizinol at up to 6% concentration. DSM-Firmenich holds 18-month marketing exclusivity. Korean sunscreens have used bemotrizinol at up to 10% for years, and Korean ODMs have deep experience formulating with it.
Why do Korean sunscreens not leave a white cast?
Korean formulators combine multiple UV filters at lower individual concentrations, reducing the mineral load that causes white residue. Chemical filters like Tinosorb S and Uvinul A Plus absorb UV invisibly. The result is SPF 50+ protection that looks and feels like skincare across all skin tones.
Can a Korean-formulated sunscreen with Uvinul A Plus be sold in the US?
No. UV filter regulations are territorial. Sunscreens sold in the US must use only FDA-approved filters. A product with Uvinul A Plus cannot be marketed as sunscreen in the US but can be sold freely in Korea, the EU, UK, Canada, Australia, and most other markets. For US-facing products, Korean ODMs formulate within FDA rules while still applying their advanced formulation techniques. See our ingredient restrictions guide for details.
"Sunscreen formulation is where the gap between Korean and American manufacturing is most visible. One ingredient approval does not close a 14-filter gap, but it does tell founders that the US market is finally waking up to what Korean chemists have known for years."
Liz Song, Founder of ALTAMEET
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